Waxno

Visual Dictionary

Learn the Artisan's Jargon: Tailoring Terms

Match tailoring words to the exact visible jacket component or construction detail.

Contents · Sections
  1. Lapel, gorge and roll
  2. Quarters and button stance
  3. Canvas and drape
  4. Suppression and balance
  5. Vents
  6. Pick stitching
  7. Baste and fitting terms
  8. Meaning, notice and say
One accurate garment detail per term; Leader-line annotations; Term-to-component visual cards

Key takeaways

  • The gorge is the collar-lapel seam, lapel belly is its outward curve and roll describes the three-dimensional turn rather than the pressed outer edge.
  • More open quarters expose trouser and waistcoat; button stance changes apparent torso length and should not be raised or lowered without considering balance.
  • Haircloth and other canvas components shape chest and lapel, while cloth weight, cut and allowance determine visible folds and movement.
  • Suppression can refine the silhouette, but excessive reduction creates X creases and bowing; balance errors may show as uneven hems, collar gaps or crossed vents.
01

Lapel, gorge and roll

The lapel folds from the front edge, meets the collar at the gorge and turns along the roll line.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. The lapel folds from the front edge, meets the collar at the gorge and turns along the roll line.

Locate three connected lines

The gorge is the collar-lapel seam, lapel belly is its outward curve and roll describes the three-dimensional turn rather than the pressed outer edge.

What to noticeIn the annotated detail card, trace collar, gorge, belly and roll line to their endpoint dots.
Why it mattersThese terms separate placement, shape and behaviour that are often collapsed into the word lapel.
What to say“Keep the gorge balanced and give the lapel this amount of belly with a clean roll.”
02

Quarters and button stance

Quarters are the lower front sections and their opening works visually with button stance, the height of the main fastening button.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Quarters are the lower front sections and their opening works visually with button stance, the height of the main fastening button.

Read the jacket’s visual centre

More open quarters expose trouser and waistcoat; button stance changes apparent torso length and should not be raised or lowered without considering balance.

What to noticeUse the front-view card to follow the quarter curve and horizontal button-stance guide.
Why it mattersNaming both features lets client and tailor discuss the full front shape rather than one button in isolation.
What to say“Place the button stance near my natural waist and keep the quarters moderately open.”
03

Canvas and drape

Canvas is the internal supporting layer; drape is how cloth hangs and travels around the body under gravity and movement.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Canvas is the internal supporting layer; drape is how cloth hangs and travels around the body under gravity and movement.

Distinguish hidden support from visible fall

Haircloth and other canvas components shape chest and lapel, while cloth weight, cut and allowance determine visible folds and movement.

What to noticeIn the sectional and whole-jacket cards, connect the hidden canvas layers to the resulting chest and lapel drape.
Why it mattersThe same surface cloth can behave differently when internal support and cut change.
What to say“How will this canvas structure affect the chest drape and lapel roll in this cloth?”
04

Suppression and balance

Suppression is the shaping that narrows the waist; balance describes how the garment hangs front-to-back and side-to-side on the wearer.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Suppression is the shaping that narrows the waist; balance describes how the garment hangs front-to-back and side-to-side on the wearer.

Shape without pulling the fronts

Suppression can refine the silhouette, but excessive reduction creates X creases and bowing; balance errors may show as uneven hems, collar gaps or crossed vents.

What to noticeUse the correct-versus-strained cards to distinguish a shaped waist from tension caused by poor balance.
Why it mattersPrecise terms prevent a request for slimness from masking posture and hang problems.
What to say“Use moderate waist suppression, then check front-to-back balance before taking in more.”
05

Vents

Vents are rear-hem openings: no vent, one centre vent or two side vents each changes movement, seat coverage and pocket access.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Vents are rear-hem openings: no vent, one centre vent or two side vents each changes movement, seat coverage and pocket access.

Name the rear opening accurately

Side vents open independently, a centre vent divides the rear and no vent creates a clean surface with less mobility; any type should hang closed at rest.

What to noticeIn the complete rear-view cards, compare vent position and behaviour over the hips.
Why it mattersA gaping vent can indicate fit or balance trouble rather than merely a style preference.
What to say“I prefer side vents for movement; please make sure they remain closed when I stand naturally.”
06

Pick stitching

Pick stitching is a visible line of small stitches near an edge, used to control layers or create restrained surface definition.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Pick stitching is a visible line of small stitches near an edge, used to control layers or create restrained surface definition.

Judge function and regularity

Hand or machine pick stitching may both be sound; stitch scale, tension, placement and suitability matter more than romantic claims about handwork.

What to noticeIn the macro card, inspect spacing, edge distance and whether the cloth puckers between stitches.
Why it mattersThe term describes a technique, not automatic proof of quality or full hand construction.
What to say“Keep the pick stitching fine and even, without making it the dominant decorative line.”
07

Baste and fitting terms

Basting uses temporary long stitches to hold components for assessment; fittings name stages where balance, volume and detail are evaluated.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. Basting uses temporary long stitches to hold components for assessment; fittings name stages where balance, volume and detail are evaluated.

Read temporary construction as information

A basted fitting may expose seam allowances and unfinished edges, while forward and final fittings progressively test refined shape and finish.

What to noticeIn the fitting-sequence cards, follow basting thread, balance marks and changes between stages.
Why it mattersKnowing the stage prevents a temporary rough appearance from being mistaken for the final standard.
What to say“At this basted fitting, which balance and volume decisions must be settled before the next stage?”
08

Meaning, notice and say

A useful term card joins meaning to a visible location, a decision and a phrase the artisan can act upon.

Highlighted detail from the visual atlas. A useful term card joins meaning to a visible location, a decision and a phrase the artisan can act upon.

Use the word in a complete request

Point to the exact component, describe the desired result and invite comparison instead of reciting jargon without context.

What to noticeIn each term-to-component card, verify that the leader line ends on the named feature and the phrase concerns that same feature.
Why it mattersProfessional vocabulary improves collaboration only when both parties attach it to the same evidence.
What to say“When I say this term, may we point to the feature and compare the two versions together?”

Related guides

Shirt & Trouser TermsRecognise collar, cuff, placket, yoke, rise, pleat, break and other working vocabulary.Shoe & Shoemaking TermsRecognise closed and open lacing, vamp, facing, welt, last, waist and other shoemaking language.

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