Contents · Sections
Tailoring and shirtmaking
Use each term to describe an observable part or effect.
Compare the visible differences in tailoring and shirtmaking: proportion, material, finish and behaviour in use.
Use each term to describe an observable part or effect.
“Could you show me how the choices in tailoring and shirtmaking change the result for my use, climate and preferred formality?”
Gorge
The seam where the jacket collar meets the lapel. “Could we keep the gorge balanced rather than unusually high?”
Lapel belly
The outward curve along the lapel edge. “I prefer a gentle belly rather than a very straight edge.”
Button stance
The height of the jacket’s main fastening button. “How will this button stance affect the apparent waist?”
Quarters
The lower front sections of a jacket and the shape of their opening. “I would like moderately open quarters.”
Scye
The armhole opening. A high, well-shaped scye can support movement without making the body excessively loose.
Pick stitching
Small visible stitches near an edge, functional in some handmade work and decorative in other construction.
Ticket pocket
A small pocket above the right hip pocket, historically for tickets and now mainly a style detail.
Placket
The finished opening of a shirt front or sleeve. A front placket is visible; a French front is cleaner.
Break
The fold where a trouser hem meets the shoe: no break, slight, half or full. It depends on width and desired line.
Shoemaking
Lacing and construction terms help identify both style and fit.
Compare the visible differences in shoemaking: proportion, material, finish and behaviour in use.
Lacing and construction terms help identify both style and fit.
“Could you show me how the choices in shoemaking change the result for my use, climate and preferred formality?”
Closed lacing
The Oxford system in which quarters are stitched beneath the vamp, forming a V-throat.
Open lacing
The Derby system in which quarters lie over the vamp and can spread more freely.
Vamp
The front upper section covering the toes and forefoot.
Facing
The sections that carry the eyelets. Their gap can reveal how the last and instep volume relate.
Welt
A strip joining upper construction to the outsole in welted shoes.
Waist
The narrow sole area between forepart and heel. It may be close, bevelled or shaped into a fiddleback.
Last
The three-dimensional form around which a shoe is made; it determines far more than toe shape.
Leather craft
Material terms describe source, surface and finishing—not automatic quality.
Compare the visible differences in leather craft: proportion, material, finish and behaviour in use.
Material terms describe source, surface and finishing—not automatic quality.
“Could you show me how the choices in leather craft change the result for my use, climate and preferred formality?”
Full-grain
Leather retaining the natural grain surface, including its honest variation.
Corrected grain
A surface sanded to reduce imperfections and then finished for uniformity.
Nubuck
Grain-side leather lightly buffed for a fine velvety nap.
Suede
Split or flesh-side leather with a softer, more open nap.
Shell cordovan
Dense membrane from the horse rump, valued for lustre and broad rolling creases.
Patina
Change from light, handling, wear and care. Attractive patina is not the same as neglect or damage.
Skiving
Thinning leather at seams and folds so layers meet without excessive bulk.
Burnishing
Compressing and polishing an edge or surface to create a smooth finish and tonal depth.